Arco de São Jorge – Between Roses, Forests, and Tradition!
Arco de São Jorge, located on Madeira’s lush northern side, belongs to the municipality of Santana. It is surrounded by mountains and hills forming a natural arch. So this is also the origin of the name “Arco” (= arch).
The settlement of this area began at the end of the 15th century. This was shortly after the foundation of Calhau de São Jorge. Since its establishment in 1515, the village belonged to São Jorge until 1676, when it became an independent parish. This explains the addition of “São Jorge” to the name.
The local population works mainly in agriculture and viticulture. Around the village, the soil is extremely fertile, and the consistent moisture supports strong plant growth. The main crop grown here is sugarcane.
To this day, you can find many historical traces that bring the village’s past back to life. Old paths, the water mill, the sugarcane mill, drinking fountains, communal washhouses, and stone walls that blend harmoniously into the landscape will make you forget that you’re living in the 21st century.
Quinta do Arco in São Jorge
The rose garden of the Quinta do Arco de São Jorge is a project that was initiated in 2003 and opened to the public in April 2004. It is dedicated to Isabel de Herédia, Duchess of Bragança. And is considered one of the five most famous rose gardens in Europe. With over 1,500 species of roses, it is also one of the largest in the world. Here you’ll find both old and modern varieties, climbing roses and non-climbing ones.
The garden was awarded the title “Garden of Excellence” by the World Federation of Rose Societies. Since June 2017, it has been managed by the international Pestana Hotel Group.
The Laurissilva Forest
The Laurissilva forest has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999. It is home to rare animal and plant species, including endemic birds such as the Trocaz pigeon and the Madeira firecrest – the island’s smallest bird, with a population of around 300,000.
Viewpoints (Miradouros)
To the east of Arco de São Jorge lies the Miradouro das Cabanas, a viewpoint offering breathtaking panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean and the rugged northern coast. On clear days, you can even spot the neighboring island of Porto Santo shimmering on the horizon.
Wine and Grape-Museum
The Wine Museum in Arco de São Jorge is located in a beautifully restored old wine cellar. Inside, you’ll find tools and equipment traditionally used in winemaking, most of which were donated by the local community. The exhibit illustrates all the steps involved in wine production – from vine cultivation and grape care, to harvesting and fermentation, all the way to bottling.
Outside the museum, you’ll find a small vineyard used for research and experimental cultivation, which visitors are welcome to explore.
Within the same building is the shop “Doces e Tradições” (“Sweets and Traditions”), where you can sample and purchase various regional products – including honey cake and honey bread, as well as homemade loaves, corn bread, and traditional wickerwork.
Library of the “Wizard of the North”
This library was opened in March 2009 in honor of the popular local poet Manuel Gonçalves, better known as Feiticeiro do Norte (the “Wizard of the North”). It features a multimedia presentation and a comprehensive collection of his poetic works.
Manuel Gonçalves was born in Arco de São Jorge in October 1858 and died there in 1927. Though illiterate, he became beloved across the island for his folk poetry. He printed his verses on loose sheets and sold them at village fairs and festivals.
São Martinho / Saint Martin
Each year on November 11th, the Feast of Saint Martin (São Martinho) is celebrated with the tasting of the season’s new wine at local wineries. Traditionally, salted cod (Bacalhau) is served as a snack during these festivities. As early as the 19th century, Manuel Gonçalves – the aforementioned poet – wrote verses about this celebration.
The highlight is a 7 p.m. procession through the village. A special attraction is the festive cart carrying the “Santo Bacalhau”, lovingly decorated by locals and carried along the entire route.
Culinary Tradition
Arco de São Jorge is renowned for its lush vegetation, dense forests, and proximity to the Laurissilva – all of which reflect a way of life that has long been rooted in agriculture and a deep connection to nature. This spirit is also evident in the local cuisine: humble, hearty, and prepared with ingredients straight from the garden.
A typical dish here is Sopa de Trigo – a thick soup made from wheat, vegetables, and sometimes bacon or sausage. It’s a warming, satisfying meal after a misty day in the woods and is considered a classic of Madeira’s northern region.
Conclusion
Arco de São Jorge is one of those places you don’t just visit – you immerse yourself in it with all your senses. Between rose gardens and laurel forests, tradition and poetry, you can feel the force of nature and the strong roots of its people. The love for the land, for wine – and for honest, simple food – is ever-present. Anyone who spends a day here will discover a different side of Madeira: quieter, more original, and deeply touching.
Arco de São Jorge can be reached by bus from Funchal.
You can board the SIGA Rodoeste line 6 at Avenida do Mar, or take the SIGA CAM line 103 at the bus terminal next to the cable car parking garage. After an unforgettable ride, you’ll arrive right in the heart of the village.
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