Archiv Bus-Blog

11 – Porto da Cruz

Porto da Cruz – Caribbean Vibes with Sun and Rum

History and Culture

Nestled in a picturesque bay on Madeira’s northeastern coast, Porto da Cruz captivates visitors with its unspoiled charm. Here, time seems to stand still as the lush greenery of the Laurisilva forest merges with the deep blue of the Atlantic. It’s no surprise that the first settlers were so taken by this scenic landscape that they erected a cross in the bay—marking the birth of Porto da Cruz, which officially became a parish on September 26, 1577.

To this day, Porto da Cruz retains its rural character, with vast fields and farmland shaping the landscape. Since its early settlement, sugarcane and wine have flourished here. These crops were not only cultivated but also processed directly on-site.

Wine Production in Porto da Cruz

Porto da Cruz is particularly known for its ‘Vinho Seco Americano,’ a dry red wine made from the ‘Americano’ grape variety. Every September, the town celebrates the grape harvest with the popular “Festa do Vinho.”

In the 19th century, Madeira was severely affected by the European phylloxera epidemic. In response, resistant American grape varieties were introduced. However, since the vines were not grafted, a particularly dry wine developed—not necessarily an export success, but highly popular among the local population.

Engenhos do Norte – Sugarcane Mill

Engenhos do Norte is one of the last three operational sugarcane distilleries on Madeira. Since its founding in 1927, the mill has been producing rum using traditional methods—still powered by steam, making it the only distillery of its kind in Europe. The historical machinery from the early 20th century remains in operation.

From March to mid-May, production is in full swing. Steam rising from the 26-meter-high chimney signals that sugarcane processing is underway—a fascinating spectacle for visitors who can witness the process up close.

With its “Branca” and “970” brands, the distillery has won more than 30 medals at international competitions since 2015. The adjacent shop offers tastings and the opportunity to take home a bottle of rum.

Opening hours:

  • Monday to Friday: 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM
  • Saturday and Sunday: until 4:00 PM
  • Free admission

The Ever-Changing History of Sugarcane Cultivation

Sugarcane cultivation in Madeira dates back to the island’s settlement in 1425 when cuttings were introduced from Sicily. Thanks to fertile soil and a mild climate, sugar quickly became the island’s most important export.

However, its success was short-lived:

  • 16th century: Overproduction and competition from Brazil triggered the first crisis.
  • 17th century: A sugarcane disease destroyed large portions of the crop.
  • 18th century: The focus shifted to viticulture and other agricultural products.
  • 19th century: Due to the phylloxera epidemic, sugarcane saw a brief resurgence—until a fungal disease nearly wiped it out again.
  • 20th century: In the 1930s, sugarcane covered 6,500 hectares; by the 1980s, only 90 hectares remained.

Today, sugarcane is making a comeback. The regional government is promoting its cultivation and the production of Madeira rum to preserve this historic tradition.

Lime Production in Porto da Cruz

In the 17th and 18th centuries, the demand for lime surged—particularly due to the construction of fortifications in Funchal and new public and private buildings. Since the lime deposits in São Vicente were insufficient, limestone was quarried from the small island of “Ilheu da Cal” south of Porto Santo and transported to Madeira.

Porto da Cruz, with its sheltered bay and proximity to Porto Santo, became an ideal hub for this valuable raw material. By the 1770s, the town was a major production site with several kilns. Although no structures remain today, the street name “Caminho do Cal” still serves as a reminder of this past industry.

Sights and Activities

Praia da Alagoa Beach & Natural Seawater Pool

With its black sand and powerful waves, Praia da Alagoa is a favorite spot for beachgoers and surfers. Since the ocean here can be quite rough, a protected natural seawater pool has been built into the rocks, providing a safe and scenic swimming experience.

Promenade & Small Harbor

A stroll along the promenade is highly recommended. Passing Engenhos do Norte, you’ll follow the path around the cliffs, where breathtaking views of the Atlantic await. As you continue past the small harbor, things get exciting: Depending on the tide, towering water jets surge between the rocks, often soaking the pathway. If you’re not quick enough—or don’t stop in time—you may end up with an unexpected shower. The author has already had the pleasure of this free “ocean shower” … 😉
Locals call this spot “Furna do Negro,” and a legend suggests that two sunken cannons lie hidden beneath the waves.

Ruins of the Fortress of Porto da Cruz

Perched on a rocky hill, the ruins of an 18th-century fortress stand as a silent witness to the past. Once a watchtower guarding against pirate attacks, the fortress still preserves its rectangular layout, exterior walls, and entryways. The number “1793” is engraved above the central portal on the eastern side, and remnants of cobblestone flooring can still be seen.

Penha d’Águia – The Eagle Rock

Steep—steeper—Eagle Rock! This striking, nearly 600-meter-high cliff between Faial and Porto da Cruz is one of Madeira’s most awe-inspiring natural wonders. Experienced hikers can take on the challenging ascent and be rewarded with stunning views of the northern coastline.

The hike begins at the northern edge of Porto da Cruz: First, follow the “Caminho Municipal das Paredes,” then continue along the “Levada da Penha de Águia.” After about 1.5 kilometers, the real climb begins…

Praia da Maiata – Almost still an insider tip

This tranquil, unspoiled beach with a mix of pebbles and black sand is perfect for surfers and nature lovers. Unlike many other beaches on Madeira, Praia da Maiata remains an insider’s tip, offering a peaceful retreat away from the crowds.

Conclusion

Porto da Cruz is a place where tradition, nature, and history come together. Here, you can experience Madeira as it once was—surrounded by breathtaking landscapes, traditional craftsmanship, and a relaxed atmosphere. Whether hiking, swimming, or enjoying a glass of local wine, Porto da Cruz invites you to unwind and immerse yourself in authentic island life.


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Picture of About the Author
About the Author

Since 2011, I’ve the privilege of calling Madeira my home. Over the years I explored the breathtaking landscapes of this island, but even after all this time Madeira continues to surprise me with hidden and unknown places waiting to be discovered.

The use of public buses is an ideal opportunity to see Madeira from an elevated perspective and get in touch with the locals.